Africa Travel Guide
South Africa
TRAVEL SUMMARY
SAFETY AND SECURITY
Safety and Security - Terrorism
There is an underlying threat from terrorism. Attacks, although unlikely, could be indiscriminate, including in places visited by expatriates and foreign travellers.
Safety and Security - Crime
South Africa has a very high level of crime, including rape and murder (there have been several cases of murder involving resident British Nationals during 2009/10). Most cases of violent crime occur in the townships. Consult a reliable tour guide if you visit a township. The risk of violent crime to visitors travelling to the main tourist destinations is generally low. The South African authorities give high priority to protecting tourists. Tourism police are deployed in several large towns.
Incidents of vehicle hi-jacking and robbery are common. You should be vigilant of the risks, particularly if driving after dark. Keep to main roads; park in well - lit areas.
During 2007 and 2008 there were incidents involving foreigners being followed from OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg to their destinations by car and then robbed, often at gunpoint. You should exercise particular caution in and around the airport and extra vigilance when driving away.
There are frequent incidents of car windows being broken and valuables (e.g. handbags) taken whilst cars are waiting at junctions (smash and grab). Keep valuables out of sight.
South Africa actively promotes an HIV/AIDS awareness campaign. But given the high level of HIV/AIDS in the country, seek immediate medical advice if you are sexually assaulted or otherwise injured. See the Health section of this Travel Advice.
As elsewhere, thieves operate at international airports and bus and railway stations. Keep your baggage with you at all times. Due to theft of luggage at OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, you should vacuum-wrap luggage where local regulations permit. You should keep all valuables in carry-on luggage.
Passport theft is common. It is usually opportunistic and non-violent (and increasingly occurs at airports on arrival or departure), although some passports are taken during muggings. Carry photocopies of your passport with you.
Keep large amounts of money, expensive jewellery, cameras and phones out of sight. Do not change large sums of money in busy public areas.
Do not give personal or financial account information details to anyone. There are international fraud rings operating in South Africa, as there are in other parts of the world, who may target visitors, foreign businesspeople and charities.
Safety and Security - Local Travel
There has been localised but severe flooding in parts of South Africa with the Eastern Cape, North West, Gauteng and Vaal river areas being particularly adversely affected with more severe weather reportedly on the way. Airports appear to be operating normally but many roads and bridges in the affected areas are underwater and residents in some low lying areas are being advised to evacuate. Please check local government advisories and weather reports before travelling.
Johannesburg, like other major international cities, has specific risk areas. You should avoid Berea and Hillbrow. There is a high level of muggings around the Rotunda bus terminus in the Central Business District.
In all areas of South Africa, you should be cautious when out after dark. Streets, even in urban areas, are not brightly lit at night. Be vigilant at all times in Durban's city centre and beach front area. Keep to main roads and avoid driving at night when visiting Northern KwaZulu Natal and Zululand, as there have been incidents of hi-jacking and robbery, particularly on isolated secondary roads.
Park in well-lit areas. Do not pick up strangers. Do not stop to assist apparently distressed motorists, as this is a technique sometimes used by hijackers. It is better to report the incident to the police.
Be vigilant on the approach roads to and from Kruger Park where there have been cases of car hijacking. The local authorities have increased police patrols in this area.
Avoid isolated beaches and picnic spots across South Africa. Walking alone anywhere, especially in remote areas, is not advised and hikers should stick to popular trails. Call the police (on 10111 or on 112 from a mobile phone) at the first sign of a threat.
There have been violent attacks on hikers and tourists on Table Mountain. Be cautious when in quieter areas of the Park, especially early in the morning or just before the park closes. Park authorities are attempting to address the problem andrecommend that visitors should walk in groups and take precautions.
Mobile phone reception is generally good in major towns and cities but can be intermittent in more remote spots.
Safety and Security - Local Travel - Road Travel
A UK Driving Licence is accepted in South Africa for up to 12 months after entry provided it carries the photograph and signature of the holder.
The standard of driving in South Africa can vary greatly and there are many fatal accidents every year.
On highways overtaking can occur in any lane including, occasionally, the hard shoulder. On single-lane roads the hard shoulder is also sometimes used by trucks and slower vehicles to allow faster vehicles to overtake - it is regarded as a courtesy to acknowledge this, usually with a brief flash of hazard warning lights. Four-way-stops are commonly found at the quieter intersections - the first vehicle to arrive has priority. On roundabouts, you should give way to the right, although this rule is often ignored.
Road standards are mostly very good, but some roads in remote areas are less well maintained and potholes may be encountered. You should drive cautiously at all times, obey speed limits and avoid unfamiliar rural areas at night. Thieves have been known to employ various methods to make a vehicle stop, enabling them to rob the occupants. Be aware that one such method is the placing of large stones in the middle of the road.
Flash flooding has damaged some roads in the Cape Provinces. Seek local advice on which routes are best avoided.
Safety and Security - Local Travel - Air Travel
The EU has a list of air carriers that are subject to an operating ban or restrictions within the community. Check to see whether this will affect your travel - European Commission Transport - Air.
Safety and Security - Political Situation
South Africa Country Profile
LOCAL LAWS AND CUSTOMSDrug-taking and smuggling is an offence. The punishments can be severe. Homosexuality is legal, and the authorities have introduced legislation which bans any discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTSYou must supply a yellow fever certificate issued at least 10 days before arrival in South Africa if you have travelled from a country with yellow fever. If you do not have a valid certificate, you will be denied entry to South Africa.
Entry Requirements - Visas
British nationals visiting South Africa on holiday for less than 90 days do not require visas. After entry, extensions of stay may be sought from the Department of Home Affairs. If you have overstayed without authority you may be required to pay a fine, either on exit or at the nearest South African mission on your return to the UK (or elsewhere). Re-entry to South Africa will not be permitted until the fine has been paid in full. However, serious overstayers may be arrested on departure and detained before appearing in court. In such cases you may face a very substantial fine and then be deported at your own expense.
Entry Requirements - Passport validity
Your passport must be valid for no less than 30 days after the end of your intended visit. South African authorities state officially that only one blank passport page is required for entry. However, visitors have been refused entry and sent back to the UK as some officials are insisting on two blank pages. We advise that you have two blank pages in your passport on arrival.
Entry Requirements - Travelling with children
Single parents or other adults travelling alone with children should be aware that some countries require documentary evidence of parental responsibility before allowing lone parents to enter the country or, in some cases, before permitting the children to leave the country.
HEALTHHospital treatment in large cities of South Africa is good but can be expensive. Medical facilities in rural areas can be basic. In remote areas, air evacuation is sometimes the only option for medical emergencies.
A German tourist is reported to have contracted Rift Valley fever following a visit to the Eastern and Western Cape provinces; she has since recovered. Most human infections of the viral illness are contracted through direct contact with animal blood or flesh. If you are planning to visit game reserves you should take particular care.
TB, rabies, malaria and cholera are common to South Africa. Malaria is common to Kruger Park and parts of the Mpumalanga, Limpopo and KwaZulu Natal (particularly the Wetlands area around St Lucia) provinces.
In August 2010 two cases of rabies were confirmed in Sophiatown, Johannesburg. Two other cases were reported during July 2010 in other parts of Johannesburg (Elodrado Park and Kibler Park). State veterinarians are vaccinating animals in the area and Gauteng state veterinarians are offering free vaccinations for domestic pets. The Gauteng Agriculture and Rural Development Department advises all domestic pets should be vaccinated (this is compulsory for cats aged over 3 months and all dogs), and that you should not approach sick animals.
In 2008 a case of rabies was reported in a woman from Northern Ireland who had worked with animals in South Africa in December 2006. The Health Protection Agency is working with colleagues in South Africa and Northern Ireland to trace volunteers who have worked at the Riverside Wildlife Rehabilitation and Environmental Education Centre in Limpopo, South Africa. See Health Protection Agency - Wildlife centre traces volunteers following death from rabies. Country-specific information about rabies is available on theNational Travel Health Network and Centre (NaTHNaC) - South Africa country information.
There are outbreaks of cholera in poor communities in rural South Africa, especially in Northern KwaZulu Natal, Mpumalanga, and Limpopo provinces. There has been an outbreak of cholera across the Limpopo region, flowing from the major outbreak at Beitbridge on the Zimbabwe/South Africa border. An increase in the number of acute diarrhoea cases has also been reported, including some in other provinces. If you are travelling to Limpopo you should familiarise yourself with precautions needed to avoid cholera, in particular avoiding tap water and ice. If you suffer from diarrhoea during a visit to South Africa seek immediate medical attention. See http://www.nathnac.org/travel/factsheets/cholera.htm.
In the 2010 Report on the Global AIDS Epidemic the UNAIDS/WHO Working Group estimated that around 5,300,00 adults aged 15 or over in South Africa were living with HIV; the prevalence percentage was estimated at around 17.8 of the adult population compared to the prevalence percentage rate in adults in the UK of around 0.2%. You should exercise normal precautions to avoid exposure to HIV/AIDS. For more general information on how to do this see HIV and AIDS.
You should seek medical advice before travelling to South Africa and ensure that all appropriate vaccinations are up-to-date. For further information on vaccination requirements, health outbreaks and general disease protection and prevention you should visit the websites of the National Travel Health Network and Centre (NaTHNaC) and NHS Scotland's Fit For Travel or call NHS Direct on 0845 46 47.
General - Insurance You should get comprehensive travel and medical insurance before travelling, including cover for medical evacuation. You should check any exclusions, and that your policy covers you for all the activities you want to undertake, especially extreme adventure sports or wildlife activities. Remember that failure to declare a medical condition could render a policy invalid.
General - Registration
Register with our LOCATE service to tell us when and where you are travelling abroad or where you live so our consular and crisis staff can provide better assistance to you in an emergency.
General - Money
The amount of currency you can take into South Africa in cash is limited to 5000 ZAR (South African Rand; £440 approx.) or equivalent.
There is a high incidence of credit card fraud and fraud involving ATMs. You should be vigilant to ensure your PIN is not observed by others when withdrawing money from an ATM. Refuse offers of assistance from bystanders. Do not change large sums of money in busy public areas.
Closely protect any documents containing details of credit cards, PINs or bank accounts.
General - Consular Assistance - Statistics
143 British nationals required consular assistance in South Africa between 1 April 2009 - 31 March 2010 for the following types of incident: 70 deaths; 21 hospitalisations; and 18 arrests, for a variety of offences. 832 replacements for lost or stolen passports were also requested.
General - Contact Details
British High Commission, Pretoria
Consular Section:
Liberty Life Place,
Block B,
256 Glyn Street,
Hatfield,
Pretoria 0083
Postal Address:
PO Box 13611 or 13612,
Hatfield,
Pretoria 0028
Telephone enquiries:
(Local time): Monday-Thursday: 07:45-15:45; Friday: 07:45-13:00;
(GMT): Monday-Thursday: 05:45-13:45; Friday: 05:45-11:00.
Visa Section:
Tel: 082 234 4450
Fax: 012 421 7888
E-mail: Visa Enquiries
Opening hours:
(Local): Monday-Thursday: 07:45-12:00; Friday: 07:45-11:00;
(GMT): Monday-Thursday: 05:45-10:00; Friday: 05:45-09:00.
Passport Section:
Tel: 012 421 7801;
Fax: 012 421 7877;
E-mail: Passport Enquiries
Consular Section:
Tel: 012 421 7800
Fax: 012 421 7877
E-mil: Consular Enquiries
Opening hours:
(Local): Passport Applications: Monday-Thursday: 08:00-13:15; Friday: 08:00-12:00;
Passport Collections: Monday-Friday: 08:00-11:00. (NB: Passports cannot be collected at other times)
We reserve the right to close the waiting room earlier during busy periods for safety reasons and to enable us to process passport applications on the day.
British Consulate-General, Cape Town
15th Floor,
Southern Life Centre,
Riebeck Street,
Cape Town 8001
Postal Address:
British Consulate-General,
PO Box 500,
Cape Town 8000
Office Hours:
(Local): Monday-Thursday: 08:00-12:30 and 13:15-16:30; Friday: 08:00-13:30;
(GMT): Monday-Thursday: 06:00-10:30 and 11:15-14:30; Friday: 06:00-11:30.
Consular Enquiries:
Tel (Switchboard): 021 405 2400;
Fax (Consular): 021 405 2449;
E-mail: Consular/Passport Enquiries
Consular Section:
Opening hours:
(Local): Monday-Thursday: 09:00-15:00; Friday: 09:00-12:30;
(GMT): Monday-Thursday: 07:00-13:00; Friday: 07:00-10:30.
Please note that only emergency travel documents (ETDs) can be issued in Cape Town.
- There is a very high level of crime, but the most violent crimes occur in townships and isolated areas away from the normal tourist destinations.
- The standard of driving is variable and there are many fatal accidents.
- There has been localised but severe flooding in parts of South Africa with the Eastern Cape, North West, Gauteng and Vaal river areas being particularly adversely affected with more severe weather reportedly on the way.
- 479,192 British Nationals visited South Africa in 2009 (Source: Statistics South Africa). Most visits are trouble-free. See General - Consular Assistance.
- There is an underlying threat from terrorism. Attacks, although unlikely, could be indiscriminate, including in places visited by expatriates and foreign travellers. SeeSafety and Security - Terrorism.
- You should get comprehensive travel and medical insurance before travelling. See General - Insurance.
- You should have two blank pages in your passport on arrival.
SAFETY AND SECURITY
Safety and Security - Terrorism
There is an underlying threat from terrorism. Attacks, although unlikely, could be indiscriminate, including in places visited by expatriates and foreign travellers.
Safety and Security - Crime
South Africa has a very high level of crime, including rape and murder (there have been several cases of murder involving resident British Nationals during 2009/10). Most cases of violent crime occur in the townships. Consult a reliable tour guide if you visit a township. The risk of violent crime to visitors travelling to the main tourist destinations is generally low. The South African authorities give high priority to protecting tourists. Tourism police are deployed in several large towns.
Incidents of vehicle hi-jacking and robbery are common. You should be vigilant of the risks, particularly if driving after dark. Keep to main roads; park in well - lit areas.
During 2007 and 2008 there were incidents involving foreigners being followed from OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg to their destinations by car and then robbed, often at gunpoint. You should exercise particular caution in and around the airport and extra vigilance when driving away.
There are frequent incidents of car windows being broken and valuables (e.g. handbags) taken whilst cars are waiting at junctions (smash and grab). Keep valuables out of sight.
South Africa actively promotes an HIV/AIDS awareness campaign. But given the high level of HIV/AIDS in the country, seek immediate medical advice if you are sexually assaulted or otherwise injured. See the Health section of this Travel Advice.
As elsewhere, thieves operate at international airports and bus and railway stations. Keep your baggage with you at all times. Due to theft of luggage at OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, you should vacuum-wrap luggage where local regulations permit. You should keep all valuables in carry-on luggage.
Passport theft is common. It is usually opportunistic and non-violent (and increasingly occurs at airports on arrival or departure), although some passports are taken during muggings. Carry photocopies of your passport with you.
Keep large amounts of money, expensive jewellery, cameras and phones out of sight. Do not change large sums of money in busy public areas.
Do not give personal or financial account information details to anyone. There are international fraud rings operating in South Africa, as there are in other parts of the world, who may target visitors, foreign businesspeople and charities.
Safety and Security - Local Travel
There has been localised but severe flooding in parts of South Africa with the Eastern Cape, North West, Gauteng and Vaal river areas being particularly adversely affected with more severe weather reportedly on the way. Airports appear to be operating normally but many roads and bridges in the affected areas are underwater and residents in some low lying areas are being advised to evacuate. Please check local government advisories and weather reports before travelling.
Johannesburg, like other major international cities, has specific risk areas. You should avoid Berea and Hillbrow. There is a high level of muggings around the Rotunda bus terminus in the Central Business District.
In all areas of South Africa, you should be cautious when out after dark. Streets, even in urban areas, are not brightly lit at night. Be vigilant at all times in Durban's city centre and beach front area. Keep to main roads and avoid driving at night when visiting Northern KwaZulu Natal and Zululand, as there have been incidents of hi-jacking and robbery, particularly on isolated secondary roads.
Park in well-lit areas. Do not pick up strangers. Do not stop to assist apparently distressed motorists, as this is a technique sometimes used by hijackers. It is better to report the incident to the police.
Be vigilant on the approach roads to and from Kruger Park where there have been cases of car hijacking. The local authorities have increased police patrols in this area.
Avoid isolated beaches and picnic spots across South Africa. Walking alone anywhere, especially in remote areas, is not advised and hikers should stick to popular trails. Call the police (on 10111 or on 112 from a mobile phone) at the first sign of a threat.
There have been violent attacks on hikers and tourists on Table Mountain. Be cautious when in quieter areas of the Park, especially early in the morning or just before the park closes. Park authorities are attempting to address the problem andrecommend that visitors should walk in groups and take precautions.
Mobile phone reception is generally good in major towns and cities but can be intermittent in more remote spots.
Safety and Security - Local Travel - Road Travel
A UK Driving Licence is accepted in South Africa for up to 12 months after entry provided it carries the photograph and signature of the holder.
The standard of driving in South Africa can vary greatly and there are many fatal accidents every year.
On highways overtaking can occur in any lane including, occasionally, the hard shoulder. On single-lane roads the hard shoulder is also sometimes used by trucks and slower vehicles to allow faster vehicles to overtake - it is regarded as a courtesy to acknowledge this, usually with a brief flash of hazard warning lights. Four-way-stops are commonly found at the quieter intersections - the first vehicle to arrive has priority. On roundabouts, you should give way to the right, although this rule is often ignored.
Road standards are mostly very good, but some roads in remote areas are less well maintained and potholes may be encountered. You should drive cautiously at all times, obey speed limits and avoid unfamiliar rural areas at night. Thieves have been known to employ various methods to make a vehicle stop, enabling them to rob the occupants. Be aware that one such method is the placing of large stones in the middle of the road.
Flash flooding has damaged some roads in the Cape Provinces. Seek local advice on which routes are best avoided.
Safety and Security - Local Travel - Air Travel
The EU has a list of air carriers that are subject to an operating ban or restrictions within the community. Check to see whether this will affect your travel - European Commission Transport - Air.
Safety and Security - Political Situation
South Africa Country Profile
LOCAL LAWS AND CUSTOMSDrug-taking and smuggling is an offence. The punishments can be severe. Homosexuality is legal, and the authorities have introduced legislation which bans any discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTSYou must supply a yellow fever certificate issued at least 10 days before arrival in South Africa if you have travelled from a country with yellow fever. If you do not have a valid certificate, you will be denied entry to South Africa.
Entry Requirements - Visas
British nationals visiting South Africa on holiday for less than 90 days do not require visas. After entry, extensions of stay may be sought from the Department of Home Affairs. If you have overstayed without authority you may be required to pay a fine, either on exit or at the nearest South African mission on your return to the UK (or elsewhere). Re-entry to South Africa will not be permitted until the fine has been paid in full. However, serious overstayers may be arrested on departure and detained before appearing in court. In such cases you may face a very substantial fine and then be deported at your own expense.
Entry Requirements - Passport validity
Your passport must be valid for no less than 30 days after the end of your intended visit. South African authorities state officially that only one blank passport page is required for entry. However, visitors have been refused entry and sent back to the UK as some officials are insisting on two blank pages. We advise that you have two blank pages in your passport on arrival.
Entry Requirements - Travelling with children
Single parents or other adults travelling alone with children should be aware that some countries require documentary evidence of parental responsibility before allowing lone parents to enter the country or, in some cases, before permitting the children to leave the country.
HEALTHHospital treatment in large cities of South Africa is good but can be expensive. Medical facilities in rural areas can be basic. In remote areas, air evacuation is sometimes the only option for medical emergencies.
A German tourist is reported to have contracted Rift Valley fever following a visit to the Eastern and Western Cape provinces; she has since recovered. Most human infections of the viral illness are contracted through direct contact with animal blood or flesh. If you are planning to visit game reserves you should take particular care.
TB, rabies, malaria and cholera are common to South Africa. Malaria is common to Kruger Park and parts of the Mpumalanga, Limpopo and KwaZulu Natal (particularly the Wetlands area around St Lucia) provinces.
In August 2010 two cases of rabies were confirmed in Sophiatown, Johannesburg. Two other cases were reported during July 2010 in other parts of Johannesburg (Elodrado Park and Kibler Park). State veterinarians are vaccinating animals in the area and Gauteng state veterinarians are offering free vaccinations for domestic pets. The Gauteng Agriculture and Rural Development Department advises all domestic pets should be vaccinated (this is compulsory for cats aged over 3 months and all dogs), and that you should not approach sick animals.
In 2008 a case of rabies was reported in a woman from Northern Ireland who had worked with animals in South Africa in December 2006. The Health Protection Agency is working with colleagues in South Africa and Northern Ireland to trace volunteers who have worked at the Riverside Wildlife Rehabilitation and Environmental Education Centre in Limpopo, South Africa. See Health Protection Agency - Wildlife centre traces volunteers following death from rabies. Country-specific information about rabies is available on theNational Travel Health Network and Centre (NaTHNaC) - South Africa country information.
There are outbreaks of cholera in poor communities in rural South Africa, especially in Northern KwaZulu Natal, Mpumalanga, and Limpopo provinces. There has been an outbreak of cholera across the Limpopo region, flowing from the major outbreak at Beitbridge on the Zimbabwe/South Africa border. An increase in the number of acute diarrhoea cases has also been reported, including some in other provinces. If you are travelling to Limpopo you should familiarise yourself with precautions needed to avoid cholera, in particular avoiding tap water and ice. If you suffer from diarrhoea during a visit to South Africa seek immediate medical attention. See http://www.nathnac.org/travel/factsheets/cholera.htm.
In the 2010 Report on the Global AIDS Epidemic the UNAIDS/WHO Working Group estimated that around 5,300,00 adults aged 15 or over in South Africa were living with HIV; the prevalence percentage was estimated at around 17.8 of the adult population compared to the prevalence percentage rate in adults in the UK of around 0.2%. You should exercise normal precautions to avoid exposure to HIV/AIDS. For more general information on how to do this see HIV and AIDS.
You should seek medical advice before travelling to South Africa and ensure that all appropriate vaccinations are up-to-date. For further information on vaccination requirements, health outbreaks and general disease protection and prevention you should visit the websites of the National Travel Health Network and Centre (NaTHNaC) and NHS Scotland's Fit For Travel or call NHS Direct on 0845 46 47.
General - Insurance You should get comprehensive travel and medical insurance before travelling, including cover for medical evacuation. You should check any exclusions, and that your policy covers you for all the activities you want to undertake, especially extreme adventure sports or wildlife activities. Remember that failure to declare a medical condition could render a policy invalid.
General - Registration
Register with our LOCATE service to tell us when and where you are travelling abroad or where you live so our consular and crisis staff can provide better assistance to you in an emergency.
General - Money
The amount of currency you can take into South Africa in cash is limited to 5000 ZAR (South African Rand; £440 approx.) or equivalent.
There is a high incidence of credit card fraud and fraud involving ATMs. You should be vigilant to ensure your PIN is not observed by others when withdrawing money from an ATM. Refuse offers of assistance from bystanders. Do not change large sums of money in busy public areas.
Closely protect any documents containing details of credit cards, PINs or bank accounts.
General - Consular Assistance - Statistics
143 British nationals required consular assistance in South Africa between 1 April 2009 - 31 March 2010 for the following types of incident: 70 deaths; 21 hospitalisations; and 18 arrests, for a variety of offences. 832 replacements for lost or stolen passports were also requested.
General - Contact Details
British High Commission, Pretoria
Consular Section:
Liberty Life Place,
Block B,
256 Glyn Street,
Hatfield,
Pretoria 0083
Postal Address:
PO Box 13611 or 13612,
Hatfield,
Pretoria 0028
Telephone enquiries:
(Local time): Monday-Thursday: 07:45-15:45; Friday: 07:45-13:00;
(GMT): Monday-Thursday: 05:45-13:45; Friday: 05:45-11:00.
Visa Section:
Tel: 082 234 4450
Fax: 012 421 7888
E-mail: Visa Enquiries
Opening hours:
(Local): Monday-Thursday: 07:45-12:00; Friday: 07:45-11:00;
(GMT): Monday-Thursday: 05:45-10:00; Friday: 05:45-09:00.
Passport Section:
Tel: 012 421 7801;
Fax: 012 421 7877;
E-mail: Passport Enquiries
Consular Section:
Tel: 012 421 7800
Fax: 012 421 7877
E-mil: Consular Enquiries
Opening hours:
(Local): Passport Applications: Monday-Thursday: 08:00-13:15; Friday: 08:00-12:00;
Passport Collections: Monday-Friday: 08:00-11:00. (NB: Passports cannot be collected at other times)
We reserve the right to close the waiting room earlier during busy periods for safety reasons and to enable us to process passport applications on the day.
British Consulate-General, Cape Town
15th Floor,
Southern Life Centre,
Riebeck Street,
Cape Town 8001
Postal Address:
British Consulate-General,
PO Box 500,
Cape Town 8000
Office Hours:
(Local): Monday-Thursday: 08:00-12:30 and 13:15-16:30; Friday: 08:00-13:30;
(GMT): Monday-Thursday: 06:00-10:30 and 11:15-14:30; Friday: 06:00-11:30.
Consular Enquiries:
Tel (Switchboard): 021 405 2400;
Fax (Consular): 021 405 2449;
E-mail: Consular/Passport Enquiries
Consular Section:
Opening hours:
(Local): Monday-Thursday: 09:00-15:00; Friday: 09:00-12:30;
(GMT): Monday-Thursday: 07:00-13:00; Friday: 07:00-10:30.
Please note that only emergency travel documents (ETDs) can be issued in Cape Town.
North Africa
Egypt
» Libya
Really the big question regarding independent travel in Libya should not be is it possible (it certainly is, no matter what anyone tells you)? Rather is it worth it? Libya is indeed a fascinating country with an interesting history and warm friendly people, but no more than many other countries that could be suggested - countries where you will be 100% free to travel independently anywhere you want.
The big draw cards that attract so many to Libya are: The Sahara, Roman ruins and an isolated (Colonel Qaddafi) image - all of which are over sold in travel literature and would-be travellers imagination. The Sahara is indeed stunning making up most of Libya, but the need (for the most part) for 4x4 transport makes it very expensive and there are no opportunities for a quick taste of desert as in Tunisia, Morocco or Egypt. Covering over 3.5 million square miles, there are many other chances to get into the Sahara (and see rock art) elsewhere in the region. The most well known and impressive ruin is Leptis Magna, which is indeed impressive (mainly due to it's size and location spilling into the Mediterranean), but is not entirely unique in the region/Europe. Greek and other ruins are interesting, but far from compelling unless you have a specific interest. And lastly, despite being isolated for so many years Libya is not startlingly different to other Arab and North African countries. It's cities are pleasant, but far from 'world best' (certainly along the coast). Posters of Qaddafi can be seen throughout the country, but consider that apart from being widely recognised in the west this is hardly the only country in the world that has posters of it's leader(s) splashed everywhere. Finally, since Libya has been open to tourists for such a relatively short period and then only to the more well-heeled brand, you will see less tourists than in say Morocco or Tunisia, but you will far from have the place to yourself as big tour groups can be found at every notable attraction.
Any agency who will obtain a visa for you will charge a hefty fee, normally in excess of 100Euros and will want to know all your details such as entry details into the country and what you plan to do. They will also offer you their tours and other services. To travel independently the most sensible method is to state you are only staying for a few days and only in Tripoli and to meet a friend (or other vague reason). Or book a tour for one or two days. The visa authorisation will take about three weeks to arrive and you will normally have to provide details of entry.
When authorised you will receive a letter stating your acceptance of which you will need in order to board the plane. At the airport or border you will be met by your agent (if you enter over-land the agent will have to come to the border at a fixed time and will charge you dearly for the time/effort to do so) and your passport will be stamped without hassle.
Note you are technically required to have a 1000USD or equivalent on you when you arrive to cover the cost of your trip. This may or (likely) may not be enforced.
The next day the agent will want to take your passport to be registered (and probably want more money for that service) and it will be stamped again. If you are not booked on a tour the representative will probably ask you what you plan to do and if asked by anyone not to show your passport or declare who sponsored your visa. Technically at this point you are free to travel around.
Passport translation:
If a Libyan passport holder travels outside the Arab world they are requested to have their passport translated into Latin script and ergo the logic that when visiting Libya with a passport in Latin script it should be translated into Arabic. This highly inconvenient ruling comes and goes in the strictness of it's enforcement and of late has been enforced with some planes being turned around due to the fact none of the passengers had their translations in place. Despite all the other hassle with travel to Libya, the enforcement and confusion as to what is expected with passport translation installs more fear and consternation in would-be visitors than anything else. At present you don't need a translation, but check before you go with your visa sponsor
Here's what to do. Firstly the agency arranging your visa is going to tell you if such a translation is needed. If it is, don't worry. What having you passport translated actually means is that in on one page within your passport you obtain an official stamp fromyour passport office/embassy which takes a full page and lists all the headings of your details such as NAME (blank), PASSPORT NUMBER (blank), EXPIRY DATE (blank), etc., all the information is in Arabic of course. It is then up to you to get the blanks filled in. The main hassle is having to go to your embassy/consulate or passport office to get this translation stamp. The main confusion is who should fill out the details. The main mistake is to get the translation on a separate bit of paper and not in the passport.- see image of translation stamp from UKPA.
So who should make the translation?: In reality it doesn't matter, a guy you met in a cafe who writes Arabic is technically just as good as a sworn translator (and much cheaper), the rules are nonsense since different sources tell you different things. A sworn translator can't stamp in your passport (only write) and any translation they make on paper is not valid/irrelevant. Your embassy can only provide the stamp, not check or validate anything. You will hear this and that on the internet (normally by those who have not visited). In 2010 first hand experience was a translation in our passport which we had a friend fill out was hardly even looked at and no other document (translation on headed paper we had put together/forged) was requested. You will likely need a translation in your passport, but for the most part it is a lot of noise about nothing.
Potential hassles when travelling independently:
As noted the official rules are that when travelling in Libya you should be accompanied by a Libyan guide or on a tour, but none the less it is quite possible to travel without. Those picking up a copy of the Lonely Planet or similar will see numerous references under sections regarding visiting sites such as Leptis Magna or the Jamahiriya museum in Tripoli that a guide is compulsory with a huge price listed next to it. This is not enforced and other little - almost all minor - niggles when in Libya without a guide be can talked around. Equally getting around in Libya on the coast is very easy in shared taxis/mini-buses and so is finding places to stay. What should always be borne in mind is there are loads of tourist in Libya (normally in big groups with one guide) and if seen alone by anyone who does care (which is hardly anyone) they will likely think you are part of another group. Likewise there are thousands of foreign workers in Libya who move around without such regulations. Speak to most Libyans and they don't even know the rule themselves. It's easy enough to walk straight up with confidence to the ticket booth in Leptis Magna and buy your ticket, and easy enough to tell anyone in the event of being challenged (which we had no experience of) that your guide is in Tripoli or your passport is in your hotel, or other such blow-off.
Traveling away from the Mediterranean into the Sahara and you are going to find problems and will really need a guide. Equally when leaving the country, since you will come across border police who know the rules very well, they will likely want to know where your guide is and see the supporting documents your entry was issued under. For this reason it is worth having your guide come to the airport or border with you. If not possibly expect some hassle and maybe a long wait.
Above all if you are traveling independently in Libya you need to be respectful and remember that the agency who issued you a visa invitation without a tour booking have put their neck on the line, thus act properly and not create problems for them or let anyone know unduly how you got a visa without a tour.
A third way: Looking over the majority of the text you can be forgiven for thinking, 'do I really want to travel independently in Libya with all this hassle/problems'? and 'is there another way'? In answer, a 'third way' would be to compromise and travel independently, but hire a guide to be with you while traveling (this way you could also hire a car or bring your own) - this can be done and you should think in the region of 100Euro per day for such a service plus paying for your guide's hotel each night. Additionally you could book a tour for a day or one part of your trip (say Ghadames or Ghat) and then travel independently for the easy legs such as a visit to Leptis Manga or Benghazi.
» Morocco
» Tunisia
Considering this and given that (at least on paper) Tunisia has so much to offer, some might feel slightly let down. Others will be more than happy to perfect their French, not to have to travel too far from home and be able to see so much in a small space of time.
There are many resort towns which exist almost entirely for tourists, which can get prohibitively expensive for those looking to find on-the-spot cheap accommodation at the height of the high season. Equally in the far south there are a few places difficult and/or awkward to reach by public transport and a few more that require your own vehicle or joining a tour, but for the most part travel is a breeze and getting anywhere and finding a place to stay is easy with it all being pretty good value. Some minor hassles does exist and lone female travellers might have the odd reservation, but it is a far cry from the situation in Morocco or Egypt. Then again you will find plenty of crowds as in Morocco or Egypt, but not really the same backpacker circuit.
Be warned that departure points vary depending where you are heading and a town might have a bus station and several louagestations - finding the right one and understanding the system takes a little time if your French is not great.
Egypt
- Intro: Very few travellers won't have aspirations of standing in front of the pyramids or aside the Nile and for good reason. Egypt is simply jammed packed with some of the most famous, spectacular, historically important sights on earth. However, couple this with Egypt's culture and close proximity to Europe (which provides thousands of package tourists arrive every day) and you'll realise just how crowded and how much hassle Egypt can be.
That's the big down side, okay your attitude and dress can lower the level of hassle you receive and likewise the time of year or current political situation with the Arab-world/Egypt can alter all this positively, but the bottom line is that crowds and hassle will effect how you feel about Egypt. A trip to Giza is easily ruined, you may need to fight your way around the Egyptian museum, women will often receive sexual overtures from youths and from the moment you arrive to the moment you leave (the only escape is a Nile boat) you will be offered souvenirs, transport (especially feluccas) and hotels. Sometimes you just want a moment to yourself to enjoy the sunset over the Nile. It takes getting use to and Egypt can be 'full-on' in a way often associated with India - but that's a positive not a negative, after all it's a must see and at present, the price is right and with general western concern/fear regards terrorism and the Arab world - crowds are down.
- Highlights: Temples in and around Luxor, Abu Simbel, Siwa Oasis, Egyptian museum in Cairo and your first glance of Giza. Plus getting of the beaten track on the Mediterranean coast or desert areas
- Lowlights: Large numbers of tourists (mainly package), big red sea resorts and constant hassle (especially for women) at major sights
- Visa strategy: On arrival at major airports, cost linked to nationality (about GB£15 / US$15). For a visit to the Sinai only, it's free at the border or Sharm el Sheikh airport for 14 days. Or for the whole country a visa is issued 'while you wait' in Eilat (Israeli border) or Aquba (Jordanian border). Otherwise a few days in any major capital city.
- Typical tourist trail: Cairo, train to Luxor, boat to Aswan, dash to Abu Simbel, all the way back to Cairo and then onto Dahab
- Dangers: There has been sporadic bombings and other incidences loosely aimed at tourists in the past few years, however for those who remember the Luxor massacre, such a large scale attack on tourists has not been repeated - authorities protect tourist safety zealously and Egyptians are friendly enough.
- Hot/cold, wet and dry: Cairo, the Sinai and northern Egypt are not overly warm in winter and you'll require a sweater. The very south is hot all year round and unbearably so in the middle of summer
- Costs: Generally cheap, but admission fees (tourist priced) do add up without a (ISIC) student card. US$20 a day easy if you watch your costs and grade down a little.
- Money: ATMs or change any hard currency
- What to take: International Student Card and ear plugs
- Getting around: Great cheap trains, busy holiday periods excepted, it's not normally difficult to get 1st class tickets on the day of travel or the day before. To avoid complications, book as far ahead as possible. Otherwise excellent buses and faster mini-buses or shared taxis. By air internally is expensive as the national carrier with the best network has to a two-tier pricing structure - guess what foreigners get the higher tier. By boat/ferrywithin Egypt is more of leisurely experience rather than practical. This normally constitutes of a Nile cruise or Felucca journey from Luxor to Aswan. Externally car ferries runs between the Red Sea resorts of Hurghada and Sharm-El-Sheikh, Aqaba in Jordan and Nuweiba in the Sinai and a weekly ferry also runs between Wadi Halfa in Sudan, and Aswan in Egypt. There are also ferry boats available to and from Red Sea to ports in Saudi Arabia and Jordan.
- Guide book: Footprint. Lonely Planet ubiquitous.
- People vibe:
- Locals: Generally nice people, despite the constant hassle you'll get. However, you may end up disliking Egyptians through day to day experience with touts and pushers
- Other travellers: Loads of package tourists getting off Nile cruisers dressing and acting improperly go a long way to explain the hassle factor and warped ideas Egyptians seem to have about western/European women. Aside from the predominantly European package tourists, you'll find plenty of backpackers including a good number of Australians. Israelis don't tend to stray off the Sinai, if visit at all.
- Locals: Generally nice people, despite the constant hassle you'll get. However, you may end up disliking Egyptians through day to day experience with touts and pushers
- Tourist factor: 9/10 or 6/10 post September 11th. Now things are getting back to normal expect a lot of tourists in high season on the beaten track
- Accommodation: Loads of choice, shop around, some places much quieter than others.
- Hot water: Never a problem
- Average cost: As little as US$5, but 10 to 20 gets you a good standard if your willing to hunt for it. Touts can be a help.
- Hot water: Never a problem
- Communications: Internet cheapest in Alex, okay in Cairo, expensive in Luxor and Dahab and more expensive still in Aswan or the desert
- Health: Easy to pick up a stomach bug - watch what you eat
- Media:
- Books: Imported newspapers, cheap Time and Newsweek. Book shops in Cairo, Luxor and Dahab
- TV: Normally just Al-Jazeera
- Books: Imported newspapers, cheap Time and Newsweek. Book shops in Cairo, Luxor and Dahab
- Food: Loads of McDonalds, good food not that easy to find
- Vegetarians: Okay
- Vegetarians: Okay
- Hassle and annoyance factor: Loads of touts and haggling. Tell me which part of La do you not understand the L or the A! (No)
- Women alone: Expect hassle, even accompanied. Show limited flesh and remember that the kissing sound men make is to draw attention and generally not a sexual overture
- Women alone: Expect hassle, even accompanied. Show limited flesh and remember that the kissing sound men make is to draw attention and generally not a sexual overture
- Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: You'll probably be offered dope. The drugs scene in Dahab is a far cry from its hey day
- Rating: 7.5/10
» Libya
- Intro: Libya is a very intriguing name in a world so heavily travelled and even more so in a region like North Africa, which is particularly heavily travelled and on Europe's doorstep. Closed off from the west for decades, home to some spectacular parts of the Sahara and ancient ruined cities. Despite a widely held belief Libya is actually very easy to visit and isn't too different than it's neighbours. The real problem concerning Libya is as an independent traveller you are not welcome and visa regulations specify that you must be accompanied by a Libyan guide during your trip. Add this to the fact that to travel in the spectacular south (Sahara region) of the country you need to hire transport (4x4) that is well out of the price range of budget travellers.
Really the big question regarding independent travel in Libya should not be is it possible (it certainly is, no matter what anyone tells you)? Rather is it worth it? Libya is indeed a fascinating country with an interesting history and warm friendly people, but no more than many other countries that could be suggested - countries where you will be 100% free to travel independently anywhere you want.
The big draw cards that attract so many to Libya are: The Sahara, Roman ruins and an isolated (Colonel Qaddafi) image - all of which are over sold in travel literature and would-be travellers imagination. The Sahara is indeed stunning making up most of Libya, but the need (for the most part) for 4x4 transport makes it very expensive and there are no opportunities for a quick taste of desert as in Tunisia, Morocco or Egypt. Covering over 3.5 million square miles, there are many other chances to get into the Sahara (and see rock art) elsewhere in the region. The most well known and impressive ruin is Leptis Magna, which is indeed impressive (mainly due to it's size and location spilling into the Mediterranean), but is not entirely unique in the region/Europe. Greek and other ruins are interesting, but far from compelling unless you have a specific interest. And lastly, despite being isolated for so many years Libya is not startlingly different to other Arab and North African countries. It's cities are pleasant, but far from 'world best' (certainly along the coast). Posters of Qaddafi can be seen throughout the country, but consider that apart from being widely recognised in the west this is hardly the only country in the world that has posters of it's leader(s) splashed everywhere. Finally, since Libya has been open to tourists for such a relatively short period and then only to the more well-heeled brand, you will see less tourists than in say Morocco or Tunisia, but you will far from have the place to yourself as big tour groups can be found at every notable attraction.
- Highlights: A friendly population who are happy to see foreigners now Libya is open to the world. The Roman ruins of Leptis Magna. The town of Ghadames (despite the cost/hassle to get there) and just saying you were there, getting your photo taken next to a poster of that famous all present image of the Colonel.
- Lowlights: Extreme barriers to independent travel, visa fees and hassle. Tour groups and language barriers. Costs when visiting the Sahara.
Any agency who will obtain a visa for you will charge a hefty fee, normally in excess of 100Euros and will want to know all your details such as entry details into the country and what you plan to do. They will also offer you their tours and other services. To travel independently the most sensible method is to state you are only staying for a few days and only in Tripoli and to meet a friend (or other vague reason). Or book a tour for one or two days. The visa authorisation will take about three weeks to arrive and you will normally have to provide details of entry.
When authorised you will receive a letter stating your acceptance of which you will need in order to board the plane. At the airport or border you will be met by your agent (if you enter over-land the agent will have to come to the border at a fixed time and will charge you dearly for the time/effort to do so) and your passport will be stamped without hassle.
Note you are technically required to have a 1000USD or equivalent on you when you arrive to cover the cost of your trip. This may or (likely) may not be enforced.
The next day the agent will want to take your passport to be registered (and probably want more money for that service) and it will be stamped again. If you are not booked on a tour the representative will probably ask you what you plan to do and if asked by anyone not to show your passport or declare who sponsored your visa. Technically at this point you are free to travel around.
Passport translation:
If a Libyan passport holder travels outside the Arab world they are requested to have their passport translated into Latin script and ergo the logic that when visiting Libya with a passport in Latin script it should be translated into Arabic. This highly inconvenient ruling comes and goes in the strictness of it's enforcement and of late has been enforced with some planes being turned around due to the fact none of the passengers had their translations in place. Despite all the other hassle with travel to Libya, the enforcement and confusion as to what is expected with passport translation installs more fear and consternation in would-be visitors than anything else. At present you don't need a translation, but check before you go with your visa sponsor
Here's what to do. Firstly the agency arranging your visa is going to tell you if such a translation is needed. If it is, don't worry. What having you passport translated actually means is that in on one page within your passport you obtain an official stamp fromyour passport office/embassy which takes a full page and lists all the headings of your details such as NAME (blank), PASSPORT NUMBER (blank), EXPIRY DATE (blank), etc., all the information is in Arabic of course. It is then up to you to get the blanks filled in. The main hassle is having to go to your embassy/consulate or passport office to get this translation stamp. The main confusion is who should fill out the details. The main mistake is to get the translation on a separate bit of paper and not in the passport.- see image of translation stamp from UKPA.
So who should make the translation?: In reality it doesn't matter, a guy you met in a cafe who writes Arabic is technically just as good as a sworn translator (and much cheaper), the rules are nonsense since different sources tell you different things. A sworn translator can't stamp in your passport (only write) and any translation they make on paper is not valid/irrelevant. Your embassy can only provide the stamp, not check or validate anything. You will hear this and that on the internet (normally by those who have not visited). In 2010 first hand experience was a translation in our passport which we had a friend fill out was hardly even looked at and no other document (translation on headed paper we had put together/forged) was requested. You will likely need a translation in your passport, but for the most part it is a lot of noise about nothing.
Potential hassles when travelling independently:
As noted the official rules are that when travelling in Libya you should be accompanied by a Libyan guide or on a tour, but none the less it is quite possible to travel without. Those picking up a copy of the Lonely Planet or similar will see numerous references under sections regarding visiting sites such as Leptis Magna or the Jamahiriya museum in Tripoli that a guide is compulsory with a huge price listed next to it. This is not enforced and other little - almost all minor - niggles when in Libya without a guide be can talked around. Equally getting around in Libya on the coast is very easy in shared taxis/mini-buses and so is finding places to stay. What should always be borne in mind is there are loads of tourist in Libya (normally in big groups with one guide) and if seen alone by anyone who does care (which is hardly anyone) they will likely think you are part of another group. Likewise there are thousands of foreign workers in Libya who move around without such regulations. Speak to most Libyans and they don't even know the rule themselves. It's easy enough to walk straight up with confidence to the ticket booth in Leptis Magna and buy your ticket, and easy enough to tell anyone in the event of being challenged (which we had no experience of) that your guide is in Tripoli or your passport is in your hotel, or other such blow-off.
Traveling away from the Mediterranean into the Sahara and you are going to find problems and will really need a guide. Equally when leaving the country, since you will come across border police who know the rules very well, they will likely want to know where your guide is and see the supporting documents your entry was issued under. For this reason it is worth having your guide come to the airport or border with you. If not possibly expect some hassle and maybe a long wait.
Above all if you are traveling independently in Libya you need to be respectful and remember that the agency who issued you a visa invitation without a tour booking have put their neck on the line, thus act properly and not create problems for them or let anyone know unduly how you got a visa without a tour.
A third way: Looking over the majority of the text you can be forgiven for thinking, 'do I really want to travel independently in Libya with all this hassle/problems'? and 'is there another way'? In answer, a 'third way' would be to compromise and travel independently, but hire a guide to be with you while traveling (this way you could also hire a car or bring your own) - this can be done and you should think in the region of 100Euro per day for such a service plus paying for your guide's hotel each night. Additionally you could book a tour for a day or one part of your trip (say Ghadames or Ghat) and then travel independently for the easy legs such as a visit to Leptis Manga or Benghazi.
- Typical tourist trail: Tripoli along the Mediterranean coast to the nearby Leptis Magna and further to Tolmeitia near Benghazi. Further South the town of Ghadames and into the Sahara, the Ubari lakes, Ghat (plus near-by Jebel Acacus and Wadi Methkandoush feature on many (tour) itineraries.
- Hot/cold, wet and dry: During winter months the coast, while far from freezing is cool enough to warrant a thick jumper. Desert temperatures also drop during this time and at night, while during the summer the coast roasts and the Sahara is an extremely dangerous place.
- Costs: Those attempting to see some of Libya independently can find cheap enough hotels and transport and happily keep costs below US$40-50 per day. A tour will work out around US$150-200 per day and perhaps more if a small group with a lot of 4x4 use. To hire your own Libyan guide/escort (you supply the transport plus a bed for him each night) will cost around US$150-200 per day.
- Money: Plenty of ATMs in major cities. Otherwise USD and EUR changes with ease - the latter being preferred.
- Getting around: Those sticking to the Mediterranean coast will find a shared taxi/mini-bus stations (area is a better word) in all towns. Simply tell someone where you want to go, he'll point out the vehicle, get in and wait. It's always cheap and overcharging doesn't happen. To move further there are long distance buses and internal flights. To explore the Sahara you really need a private vehicle.
- Guide book: There are several guidebooks available, all of which have great detail on Libya's history and sights, but few with much independent travellers can really use as they will tell you over and over again that you can't visit independently! The new Lonely Planet for example is full of shite from cover to cover, frequently telling you that you need a guide to enter this site or can't go there - things do change, but don't pick up this book and let the constant references to needing a private guide put you off.
- People vibe:
- Locals: It's hard to really gauge Libyans as few speak English or French so communication is a little difficult, but they are a fairly welcoming bunch who are happy to see tourists to remind them the country is 'open' to the world after so many years of isolation.
- Other travellers: Large numbers of tour groups, notably Italians.
- Locals: It's hard to really gauge Libyans as few speak English or French so communication is a little difficult, but they are a fairly welcoming bunch who are happy to see tourists to remind them the country is 'open' to the world after so many years of isolation.
- Tourist factor: Despite its isolated image and difficulties visiting, Libya's main attractions do see fairly concentrated visitor numbers. However tour groups tend to swarm in and out.
- Accommodation: Tours stick to high standard hotels, but there are plenty of cheapies, including a basic hostel or two. The problem however is locating cheap hotels not aimed at tour groups or those visiting on business, since street and hotel names are normally in Arabic script.
- Food: Plenty of places to eat, many of which are set up for tour groups.
- Vegetarians: Not really a problem, but can be an issue if menu is in Arabic. Expect to pick bits of meat out of couscous in worst case.
- Vegetarians: Not really a problem, but can be an issue if menu is in Arabic. Expect to pick bits of meat out of couscous in worst case.
- Rating: 6/10
» Morocco
- Intro: Sights wise Morocco pales in comparison to Egypt, nevertheless it's a remarkable place to visit. Excellent marketplaces dot cities; colourful palaces, mountains, beaches, friendly locals (plus the usual band of con-men, hustlers, beggars, and pushers notwithstanding) this is an excellent gateway into Africa. So if you are holidaying around Spain and Portugal and have a little more time on your hands you can't go wrong with paying a visit down south to Morocco.
- Highlights: Marrakech's Djemaa el-Fna (loaded with fire eaters, food stalls, and other curiosities), The Roman Ruins of Volubilis, The beaches of Essaouira and Agadir, The Medieval Splendour ofFez and Chefchaouen.
- Lowlights: Tangier and Teutouan are fairly dodgy (loaded with cons and ripoffs) and are the only way to get to Morocco other than flying in.
- Highlights: Marrakech's Djemaa el-Fna (loaded with fire eaters, food stalls, and other curiosities), The Roman Ruins of Volubilis, The beaches of Essaouira and Agadir, The Medieval Splendour ofFez and Chefchaouen.
- Typical Tourist Trail: Taking a Ferry from Algeciras in Spain (every hour on the hour) or Gibraltar (much less frequent) to Tangier or Teutouan from where the typical tourist trail circles around the Imperial cities (Rabat, Mekenes, Fez, and Marrakech) with forays into the Rif mountains and the Beaches of Essaouira (Jimi Hendrix Town).
- Visas: Citizens of the UK, EU, US, Australia and New Zealand do not need visas. Three-month visitor's stamps can be extended by Immigration or Bureau des Etrangers in most large towns.
- Weather: Boiling in the summer - don't under estimate the need for a good sweater in winter.
- Costs: Can get by on US$20-30 a day.
- Money: ATMs readily available as are Exchange booths and Banks. Notably in towns with ferry connections to Europe, don't pay for anything in Euros or Dollars and let anyone who asks for them (typically taxi drivers) know that you will pay in Dirhams. Basically any quote not in Dirhams such be treated with suspicion.
- What To Take: Poker face and the ability to be diplomatic
- Getting Around: An excellent train network (covered by Interrail pass) which is the preferred option and far less cramped and stressful alternative to local buses. Train network links Marrakech and Tangier via Casablanca and Rabat, a branch line near Meknes goes to Oujda. A bus network that takes care of where trains can't travel to. You can find luxury buses between towns usually run by CTM, Supratours and smaller companies. Shared taxi services (grande taxi) also operates between towns; fares are fixed and shared equally between passengers. Grande taxis are often the cheapest way of travelling between towns and cities in Morocco, but unless the Grand Taxi is full you will have to pay for all the unsold seats (you'll find that sometimes drivers head off assuming the 'rich' tourist will cover the whole cost). Renting a car or bringing your own is also a valid option as the roads are top notch.
- Guide Book: Lonely Planet, Rough Guides, if you have ADD then get Let's Go: Spain and Portugal (Morocco is included).
- People Vibe:
- Locals: Generally very nice people though there are times you will have to say no without hurting feelings. Impress them with your knowledge of French and Islam (though explaining why you're not a Muslim even though you know the five pillars may be tricky). Hustlers are very aggressive and when getting tours or transportation make sure that you agree on a rate and insist the price is SET IN STONE (they will try to weasel out extra from you). Stand firm. Ignore hustlers who feign anger at you telling them to get lost.
- Other Travellers: Southern Spain sells overpriced package tours of the Northern tip of Morocco (Tangiers, Teutouan, Spanish Ceuta and Melilla) which attracts mostly gullible middle aged tourists. Other than that there are the usual band of European, Aussie, and Kiwi travellers (with a sprinkle of American and Canadian tourists) looking for a good time and to get high.
- Locals: Generally very nice people though there are times you will have to say no without hurting feelings. Impress them with your knowledge of French and Islam (though explaining why you're not a Muslim even though you know the five pillars may be tricky). Hustlers are very aggressive and when getting tours or transportation make sure that you agree on a rate and insist the price is SET IN STONE (they will try to weasel out extra from you). Stand firm. Ignore hustlers who feign anger at you telling them to get lost.
- Tourist Factor: Before Sept 11th about 7/10 so it might have declined to 5/10 since especially with the terrorist bombing of Casa. Since the Casa incident Morocco has been free from such incidents and tourist are return again in numbers.
- Accommodation: Plenty ranging from guest houses to hotels and hostels.
- Hot water: some places have no hot water but you can get a Hamaam bath for as little as US$0.50-2
- Average Cost: US$5-20 a night
- Hot water: some places have no hot water but you can get a Hamaam bath for as little as US$0.50-2
- Communications: Internet available in major cities
- Health: Be vigilant about bottled water (make sure it's sealed) and drink a lot of it. Stay away from salads and melon.
- Media:
- Books: News stands carry Time, Newsweek, WSJ, Herald Tribune, and USA Today. Some English bookstores.
- TV: Might get CNN or BBC at more up-market hotels. American Movies play in theatres
- Books: News stands carry Time, Newsweek, WSJ, Herald Tribune, and USA Today. Some English bookstores.
- Food: Epicurean delights of Brochettes, Tajines ( Stews), Fish, Pastilla (Baklava with Pigeon), Harrira (lentil soup) and cous-cous chased with Mint Tea.
- Vegetarians: Lots of Cous-cous and Omelettes (harrira and vegetable tajines might be flavoured with meat stock)
- Vegetarians: Lots of Cous-cous and Omelettes (harrira and vegetable tajines might be flavoured with meat stock)
- Hassle and Annoyance Factor: As with Egypt a notable factor. Having to bargain for almost everything can take its toll.
- Women Alone: Dress conservatively. Be assertive.
- Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Kif (powder made from the dried flower of the female plant) is easy to find and you can be offered any time. Cultivation of kif is tolerated to some extent in an area of the high Rif mountains, where it constitutes the main cash crop of the local farmers. Chefchaouen is where you are the least likely to get ripped off or turned into the police. The famous Moroccan hashish world renown and many travellers never get beyond the Rif mountains where it’s mainly grown. Hashish is so cheap in the mountains that when backpackers arrive there they act like they have broken into the sweetshop. Majoun (marijuana in candy form) is known for inducing paranoia and dehydration. You may be inspected upon your return to Spain as Morocco is the Colombia of Europe.
Alcohol: wine is not too bad. Beer is below average. Local bars (as opposed to those in posh hotels) tend to be dark, gloomy, and attract alcoholics and a slightly dodgy crowd.
- Rating: 7.5/10
» Tunisia
- Intro: You could forgive Tunisia for being more 'tourist' than 'traveller' friendly. The country has made quite some efforts to attract and become acceptable to the European package holiday hordes and has a lot to offer in return, notably it’s location right on the continent's doorstep, glorious beaches, French language, compact size and monuments. Nonetheless it’s okay to be a tourist and those who want to travel around the country rather than stay put in one beach resort will find fairly good transport links, much to see and above all a compactness and lack of hassle fairly unique in North Africa.
Considering this and given that (at least on paper) Tunisia has so much to offer, some might feel slightly let down. Others will be more than happy to perfect their French, not to have to travel too far from home and be able to see so much in a small space of time.
There are many resort towns which exist almost entirely for tourists, which can get prohibitively expensive for those looking to find on-the-spot cheap accommodation at the height of the high season. Equally in the far south there are a few places difficult and/or awkward to reach by public transport and a few more that require your own vehicle or joining a tour, but for the most part travel is a breeze and getting anywhere and finding a place to stay is easy with it all being pretty good value. Some minor hassles does exist and lone female travellers might have the odd reservation, but it is a far cry from the situation in Morocco or Egypt. Then again you will find plenty of crowds as in Morocco or Egypt, but not really the same backpacker circuit.
- Highlights: (all fairly low-key) Tozeur and the surrounding area, including Chott el-Jerid. Matmata, El Jem's colosseum,Kairouan, Tunis' medina and many other of the country'smedinas. Sidi Bou Said, ruins at Dougga and Cap Serrat in the north for some less crowded and laid back beaches.
- Lowlights: Tourist numbers, many of whom are on package trips. Package resort towns (such as Hammemet). Inflated prices in high season and temperatures in mid-summer. Transport and again crowds in far south. The Sahara is better experienced elsewhere if you want to appreciate its tranquility.
- Visa strategy: Free for most on arrival at all major airports and crossing points.
- Typical tourist trail: Most visitors (tourists) stick to one of the main resort destinations such as Jerba or Hammemet. travellers normally head from entry in Tunis to the South, Tozeur, Matmata and around with a few stops on the way in places such as Kairouan and Sousse (as a base to visit El-Jem and others).
- Hot/cold, wet and dry: Varied climate. What is for sure is a visit in mid-winter will be colder than you expect and a visit in mid-summer will be hotter. The Sahara and the south really bakes in summer months and becomes fairly unpleasant. From November to March, it is worth packing a few jumpers as there is not much heating and the far north gets pretty chilly in the evenings/nights/during rain.
- Guide book: Nothing stands out - LP most popular and fairly good.
- Getting around: Great, cheap and efficient public transport - a reflection on how much more developed Tunisia is compared to other North African countries. Mini-buses (called louages) depart regularly (when full) from various points in any major town. On the whole you never have to wait too long for a departure. You might have to hop from one to another if wanting to travel right across the country and frequency is much greater in the morning. Normally you pay when you leave the vehicle (apart from in large towns which have much more organised stations and you pay in advance). Prices are very reasonable and there is never a problem with over-charging.
Be warned that departure points vary depending where you are heading and a town might have a bus station and several louagestations - finding the right one and understanding the system takes a little time if your French is not great.
- Language: As with Morocco and Algeria, French is spoken, which you will need to master a few phrases in order to travel. Apart from the epicentres of tourism in the country, English is rarely spoken or understood.
- Tourist factor: Without a doubt Tunisia receives a huge number of tourists, and being quite a small country with limited destinations this is extremely notable. Without knowing exact figures you could consider for every one independent traveller there are 10 package tourists or well-heeled French or Italian independent travellers, many of whom come with their own 4x4 to experience the desert. 9/10
- Costs: Fairly on par with the rest of the region, if not a little more expensive than Morocco and certainly more than Egypt, but still good value. US$40 would be an average budget, but this can inflate dramatically if adding tours/trips and some luxury.
- Money: ATMs plentiful in major towns. Of course in small places like Matmata there are no banks so a little emergency EUR, as always is worthwhile holding, notably if crossing by land. USD/GBP not so welcome.
- People vibe:
- Locals: Generally indifferent and quite use to tourists.
- Other travellers: Typical North African backpacker crowd, being a sprinkling of Northern Europeans (mainly Dutch, German and English), Australians and the odd Japanese or Korean. However most visitors are not backpackers.
- Locals: Generally indifferent and quite use to tourists.
- Accommodation: There is minimal accommodation specifically aimed at backpackers, but plenty of cheap places to stay. Although the range, price and availability does vary from town to town and in the epicentres (beach resorts) of the summer peak, expect very limited budget accommodation. Inland away from the beach you will find plenty. Lack of heating in the winter and air-con in the summer in cheap places is a little painful. A basic breakfast is normally included in the price of a room.
- Hot water: Generally, but not guaranteed if you go ultra-cheap.
- Average cost: 15-30USD
- Hot water: Generally, but not guaranteed if you go ultra-cheap.
- Communications: Internet is rarely found in small private shops (internet cafes), rather larger government run centres of which there is always one in any big/medium town, known as Publinet. They are quite cheap and connection speeds, while not lighting are okay. The same centres sometimes have facilities to make international calls.
- Media:
- Books: You will find some English language books and guidebooks in the biggest book stores of Tunis. You will also find Time, Newsweek and similar, including yesterday's English, German, Italian and of course French newspapers in the biggest cities and major tourist resorts.
- TV: Don't expect any English language TV, only French with some Italian channels.
- Books: You will find some English language books and guidebooks in the biggest book stores of Tunis. You will also find Time, Newsweek and similar, including yesterday's English, German, Italian and of course French newspapers in the biggest cities and major tourist resorts.
- Food: There is plenty of good food to be found. In tourist resorts it will likely find you, but off the beaten track will take more looking for, a little sense of adventure (since places don't always look too appealing) and a fondness for couscous which is the most usual fair coupled with a briq (crisp, very thin pastry envelope that comes with a range of fillings). Tunisians also have a fondness for canned Tuna, crepes and bread (which is subsidised, very cheap and supplied with most meals).
- Vegetarians: Not always the easiest as meat features in most meals (most meals being couscous). If you are a fish eater life is easier due to canned tuna featuring in some fashion on many menus. Briqs (see above) are often vegetarian and a good option. If you can handle it, picking the lumps of meat out of a dish of couscous is a fail safe.
- Vegetarians: Not always the easiest as meat features in most meals (most meals being couscous). If you are a fish eater life is easier due to canned tuna featuring in some fashion on many menus. Briqs (see above) are often vegetarian and a good option. If you can handle it, picking the lumps of meat out of a dish of couscous is a fail safe.
- Hassle and annoyance factor: Relative to Morocco and Egypt there is no real hassle in Tunisia. This is one of the wealthiest countries in the region and it shows it in the fact you are not really ever besieged by touts, salesmen or beggars. There is minor hassle from souvenir sellers and restaurant owners, but it's nothing significant.
- Women alone: Again, no real problems compared to Morocco or Egypt and the main tourist resorts see there fair share of tall blondes in mini-skirts that don't seem to get that much attention. However the same clothing in more conservative inland cites would be a big issue and it is important to remember this is still a Muslim country where some men do have warped impressions of western women. So as a female alone you need some degree of confidence and sensible clothing, but you need not expect the worst as problems are rare.
- Women alone: Again, no real problems compared to Morocco or Egypt and the main tourist resorts see there fair share of tall blondes in mini-skirts that don't seem to get that much attention. However the same clothing in more conservative inland cites would be a big issue and it is important to remember this is still a Muslim country where some men do have warped impressions of western women. So as a female alone you need some degree of confidence and sensible clothing, but you need not expect the worst as problems are rare.